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One of the top addresses in town, where celebrities and politicians stay for official or private visits. The 140 rooms offer great views of the Staatsoper opposite. The hotel provides all sorts of thoughtful treats such as umbrellas for rainy days. The restaurant, Korso, is among Vienna’s best (see p78).

From novels to history, to books on Vienna – you can find virtually any title you need here. It offers a great selection of dictionaries and teaching material too.

Little yeast cakes filled with plum jam are baked in a large pan so that they stick together. They are usually served with vanilla sauce.

Just behind the National Library is the pretty Burggarten, landscaped in the formal English style and usually inhabited by sun worshippers on warm summer days. Located in the large Art Nouveau greenhouse, built in 1901, is a stylish café.

The Burgtheater is one of the most important theatres in the German-speaking world, and the choice of its director at any given period always arouses much political and cultural passion. Premieres of traditional as well as modern plays are closely scrutinized by the public, triggering either enthusiastic or dismissive reactions (see p85).

The Burg, as the theatre is affectionately called by the Viennese, was among the first theatres to be built in the German-speaking world. Gottfried Semper and Carl von Hasenauer designed this spectacular building with its Renaissance façade over a period of 14 years (1874–88). On its completion, the Court Theatre, founded in 1776, moved into the new building on the Ringstrasse. A grand staircase with frescoes by Gustav Klimt and his brother Ernst leads from the foyer to the auditorium (see p56).

A very relaxed place with leather sofas – perfect after the hectic Naschmarkt. Tasty food from Viennese to vegetarian.

A trendy hangout with cosy rattan seating and an adjoining bookshop. Popular with Vienna’s gay community.

Bräunerhof has a true living-room atmosphere. The furniture is cosy but worn, thanks to a stream of customers dating back to the 1900s. It has always been a literary café – the writers Alfred Polgar and Hugo von Hofmannsthal were regular visitors (see p94).

A literary café that offers an extensive range of coffees, excellent cakes, and the international papers. Piano music at weekends (see p77).