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Vienna : Places to eat

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  • Bräunerhof has a true living-room atmosphere. The furniture is cosy but worn, thanks to a stream of customers dating back to the 1900s. It has always been a literary café – the writers Alfred Polgar and Hugo von Hofmannsthal were regular visitors (see p94).

  • A literary café that offers an extensive range of coffees, excellent cakes, and the international papers. Piano music at weekends (see p77).

  • Café Central

    One of the city’s best-known cafés, the Central was the meeting place for Vienna’s intellectuals at the turn of the 19th century – the poet Peter Altenberg gathered a literary circle and he even had his mail delivered here. Leon Trotsky was also one of the regulars during his Vienna exile prior to World War I. Today the Central serves almost 1,000 cups of coffee a day in its elegant setting (see p94).

  • Situated in the historic Palais Ferstel, this café was the meeting point for the city’s intellectuals in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Live piano music daily (see p76).

  • The Demel is Vienna’s most refined retreat for cake-lovers. Opened in 1786, by the mid-19th century it had become a hotspot for the Viennese upper classes, even providing Empress Sisi with her favourite sweet, violet sorbet.

  • Established in 1923, the Diglas has marble tables, wooden chairs and little window booths fitted with red velvet sofas. The newspaper rack and the cakes – slices are served with a small mountain of whipped cream – are obligatory (see p94).

  • A very charming, small traditional café with stuccoed walls, Diglas sells mouth-watering cakes and you can even watch how apple strudel, Sachertorte and the like are made in the historic bakery.

  • Café Dommayer

    A traditional café with red velvet upholstery, a wooden verandah and a pretty garden. Johann Strauss used to give concerts here.

  • Established in 1918, this typical Viennese coffeehouse is particularly popular with night owls and early birds as it opens in the early morning hours.

  • Café Frauenhuber

    Not only one of the city’s oldest but also most beautiful cafés, with cosy red sofas and marble tables. A large variety of cakes and snacks are available.

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