With cobbled streets, narrow alleys, quiet squares and historic buildings, Vienna’s atmospheric heart is brimming with famous landmarks and reminders of Roman and Habsburg rule, yet it also hosts the crème de la crème of shops, restaurants and cafés. Although the inner city is popular with visitors, nowhere else will you find so many elegant locals proudly promenading as you will along the Kärntner Strasse, Graben and Kohlmarkt – indeed, most of the central area is now pedestrianized.
If you are in Vienna during advent, you can listen to Christmas carols played by the Anker Uhr’s glockenspiel at 5pm and 6pm-
Morning
Begin the day at the Stephansdom (see pp8– 11) to catch the morning sun beaming through the medieval windows, and stroll around the cathedral’s Gothic features. It is worth climbing the south tower or taking the elevator up the North Tower for stunning views over the rooftops. For a mid-morning break head to the far end of the square and enjoy a cup of tea in Haas & Haas (see p94).
Wander the narrow streets around the cathedral but arrive on Hoher Markt at noon to watch the historic figures of the Anker Uhr march by.
There are many places to have lunch, but on a sunny day pick Do & Co (see p95) with its terrace overlooking Stephansplatz.
Afternoon
Spend the early afternoon exploring Graben and Kohlmarkt with their antiques shops and galleries, until you reach the Hofburg Palace (see pp12–17). With its various collections, select those that interest you most, but don’t miss the state apartments where Emperor Franz Joseph lived.
Leave the palace through the Michaeler Gate, pass Loos Haus, then treat yourself to a coffee and a piece of Sachertorte at Café Konditorei Demel (see p94).
To round off your day jump onto tram Nos. 1 or 2 to admire the lovely floodlit buildings by night.
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This rococo building (1755) was formerly the site of Vienna University. The Academy of Sciences hall staged the premiere of Joseph Haydn’s The Creation in 1808.
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One of the world’s largest and most valuable collections of graphic art is gathered in the Albertina palace, named after its founder, Duke Albert of SachsenTeschen (1738–1822). Although there is no permanent exhibition, three halls are used for several temporary exhibitions, including the Habsburg State Rooms. (see p44).
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Here old uniforms from the imperial age and military medals are on display.
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The Habsburgs confiscated this palace in 1316 from Otto von Haymo who had conspired against them. It functioned as the town hall until 1883.
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The small bar in a simple but sophisticated Adolf Loos design is one of the most beautiful nightspots in town. It also serves delectable cocktails.
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The Anker Uhr clock spans two wings of an insurance company building and was installed between 1911 and 1917 by Franz von Matsch. Every day 12 pairs of figures, each symbolizing a period in Vienna’s history, step forward on the hour. The Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius begins, followed by Duke Leopold VI, Maria Theresa and Joseph Haydn, among others. At noon all 12 figures parade across the bridge.
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Scientific books, early prints and a wide range of Austrian memorabilia are just some of the specialities of this antiquarian bookshop. You can browse here for hours.
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Located in a cellar underneath the Albertina, with a menu of Viennese specialities. Live music from 6:30pm.
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This bustling pub, in an area known as the Bermuda Triangle, is renowned for its draught beer served in clay jugs as well as its variety of bottled beers. There is a dance floor in the basement.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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