The area from the Karlskirche to the Belvedere Palace is predominantly filled with grand mansions and summer residences from the 18th and 19th centuries. Vienna’s aristocracy built their summer palaces in this area because it was in the countryside but not too distant from the city. Prince Eugen’s summer retreat, the Belvedere, clearly dominates the area but there are several other ornate homes, such as the Palais Schwarzenberg and the Palais Hoyos, which are well worth a visit. Today many of these buildings function as embassies and some of the once private large gardens are now public parks. But the area is also known for its private schools, such as the Theresianum, and its many churches of various denominations. During Roman times the civil settlement of the military camp Vindobona (see p40) was situated here and the main roads in the area, Landstrasser Hauptstrasse and Rennweg, follow old Roman routes.
Although the Gardekirche is closed unless there are services, you can step into the entrance area and get a look inside the church-
Morning
Start your day at Karlsplatz, where you can inspect the Otto Wagner pavilions in Resselpark and then walk on to the Karlskirche (see pp26–7). Left of the church is the Historisches Museum der StadtWien (see p43), where you could easily spend a few hours studying the city’s history. Don’t miss the Klimt and Schiele paintings, as well as Adolf Loos’s original living room from 1903.
Head towards Argentinierstrasse, right of Karlskirche, where you can enjoy a coffee in the Radiocafé (see p120).
Walk east to the Liberation Monument then take Rennweg and pass by Otto Wagner’s Palais Hoyos. For lunch pop into Salm Bräu (see p120).
Afternoon
It is now time to head for the Belvedere (see pp22–5) where you could easily spend the rest of the day. After having a look at the medieval collection in the Lower Belvedere, walk through the formal gardens towards the imposing Upper Belvedere, home to the Austrian National Gallery with many Schiele, Klimt, Gerstl and Attersee paintings. For a little rest you can enjoy the peaceful Alpine Gardens.
If you are not too tired, you should consider attending a concert in the Konzerthaus (see p60) but you need to book the tickets a day in advance.
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A cosy wine bar and restaurant. Try homemade goat’s cheese marinated in olive oil and herbs. From the wine boutique you can take a bottle home with you.
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This party spot is open Thursday to Sunday with a mainly teenage audience. Every kind of music.
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These two 18th-century palace buildings are beautifully linked by landscaped gardens filled with statuary (see pp22–5).
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Some 30 to 40 traditional Viennese dishes.
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This restaurant specializes in spare ribs which are prepared in no less than eight different ways.
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A peaceful café and a retreat for reading the daily papers. There is a games room where you can play chess or cards.
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A traditional Viennese café with opulent red velvet seating and mirrors on the walls. In summer seating is on a terrace facing the Ringstrasse. The café hosts changing exhibitions of Viennese artists and there are piano concerts on Wednesday and Friday evenings (7:30–10pm).
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Traditional Viennese dishes including Gulasch and Schweinsbraten (see pp70–71).
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Enjoy pints of Guinness here. The furniture was imported from a pub in Cork.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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