The city of Vienna is located where the rolling hills of the Vienna Woods slope down into the Vienna basin, the Wiener Becken; from here it spreads out on both sides of the Danube. The Vienna Woods, to the west of the city, provide a welcome green belt and a peaceful backdrop and recreation area for city dwellers – it is a popular destination among the Viennese for short excursions and hikes. Today’s suburbs such as Grinzing and Nussdorf were once separate countryside villages, until the spreading city swallowed them up as part of the Greater Vienna area. In the 17th and 18th centuries the city’s rich and noble families built their summer residences and villas within easy reach of the capital, but far enough out to benefit from cool rural surroundings during the hottest time of the year. Schloss Schönbrunn, Geymüller Schlössel and Hermesvilla were grand summer houses of this type. Also away from the centre, for reasons of hygiene and space, is the country’s largest cemetery, the Zentralfriedhof.
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Morning
To beat the crowds and enjoy the peace, begin your day at the former imperial summer residence Schloss Schönbrunn (see pp36–9). You could easily spend a day in the palace, walking in the park and having a look at all the features of the formal French garden, or visiting the world’s oldest zoo at Schönbrunn park. For a relaxing coffee or tea head towards the far end of the park to the coffeehouse in the Gloriette building. The view of the palace and the city is very rewarding.
Stroll through the park towards the Hietzinger gate of the palace. The Hietzinger Bräu is just around the corner where you could get the taste of a real Tafelspitz (see p70) for lunch.
Afternoon
After lunch, head towards the Kirche am Steinhof (see p123) by Bus No. 48A, but take into account that guided tours through the interior only take place on Saturday afternoons. Nearby Lainzer Tiergarten, part of the Vienna Woods, with the Hermesvilla Palace (see p123) is on the U-Bahn U4 line.
If you favour a more rustic experience head northwest towards Kahlenberg and Leopoldsberg with their vineyards and hiking paths. To bring the day to a cosy conclusion, make your way to Grinzing by public transport or taxi to enjoy Viennese vintages in one of the many wine taverns.
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An opulent interior and terrific food make a visit to the Altwienerhof an exceptional experience.
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A traditional café with red velvet upholstery, a wooden verandah and a pretty garden. Johann Strauss used to give concerts here.
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The pavilion in the middle of the Prater park was built in 1874 as a meeting point for the imperial hunting party (now a restaurant).
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Otto Wagner built this villa between 1886 and 1888. Today it is owned by Ernst Fuchs, a painter of the Phantastic Realism school, who exhibits his own work here.
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The old wooden interior of this restaurant and pub with its own brewery has a great atmosphere. The beer garden is pleasant in summer.
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The Geymüller-Schlössel is a little gem off the beaten track. The entire summer palace, both inside and out, reflects the Biedermeier style. The palace is owned by the Museum for Applied Arts and houses a collection of some 170 clocks, among them an early Viennese flute clock (c.1800) playing music by Haydn.
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Vienna is the only capital in the world where wine grapes are grown within the city boundaries – some 1,670 acres of vineyards are found here. The most widely known wine-growing community in the capital is Grinzing. Once a small vintners’ village on the outskirts of the city, it is today the hub of Heurigen , with crowds of both locals and tourists flocking to the wine taverns (see pp74–5). The narrow streets still boast an old-fashioned rural charm.
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This is a spacious beer hall with wooden floors and a rustic design that creates an inviting atmosphere. Traditional food is served with finesse.
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A genuine Viennese restaurant with a rustic and cosy interior. Dishes vary with the seasons.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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