This is a multifaceted area , featuring many architectural landmarks standing regally alongside the colourful activity of the Naschmarkt. It is characterized by great buildings of various styles such as the historic State Opera House and the Academy of Fine Arts, as well as the finest examples of Viennese Art Nouveau with the Secession Building and two stunning Otto Wagner houses on Linke Wienzeile. The area is also a shoppers’ paradise – Mariahilfer Strasse boasts hundreds of stores and many cafés and restaurants, while the Naschmarkt offers a different kind of retail experience. The lively market with eclectic stalls bears some resemblance to Oriental bazaars and is a delight for all the senses.
Arrive early on Saturday morning if you want to rummage through the Naschmarkt flea market without large crowds To see a show in the Theater an der Wien buy tickets in advance either direct at the theatre or at the booth next to the Staatsoper-
Morning
Starting off by admiring the impressive Staatsoper (see pp30–31), cut your way through Operngasse to the Secession Building (see pp32–3). The stunning Beethoven Frieze inside this Art Nouveau building shouldn’t be missed. The Akademie der bildenden Künster (see p109) is just a stone’s throw from Olbrich’s Secessionist masterpiece and is also worth an hour or two, particularly for its fine Rubens paintings.
For a coffee, head for the refurbished Café Museum (see p114), first designed by Adolf Loos in 1899.
Walk towards Naschmarkt (see p109) and roam the market with all its stalls and lively atmosphere, casting a glance over the road to the Theater an der Wien, the Majolika Haus (see p109) and the Wagner Haus.
For lunch choose from one of the cafés or restaurants on Naschmarkt such as the Do An (see p115).
Afternoon
Make your way up to Mariahilfer Strasse and spend the rest of the afternoon leisurely looking around the many shops.
Stay in the area for the evening and either attend a classical opera performance in the Staatsoper or see a musical in the Theater an der Wien. But whichever of the two entertainment venues you choose, make sure you have booked your tickets in advance.
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When the medieval bastions around the inner city were knocked down at the end of the 19th century and the Ringstrasse was laid out, Theophil von Hansen constructed a building in the Italian Renaissance style in 1872–6 to house Vienna’s art school. The school, founded by Peter Strudel in 1692, moved here from the Strudelhof building on the academy’s completion. The Academy of Fine Arts became internationally famous for its training of painters, sculptors, architects, graphic artists and stage designers. It also houses a gallery of 17th-century Dutch and Flemish Old Masters, 19th-century Austrian works, and a copper etching collection of more than 60,000 prints and drawings (see p44).
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A very relaxed place with leather sofas – perfect after the hectic Naschmarkt. Tasty food from Viennese to vegetarian.
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Established in 1918, this typical Viennese coffeehouse is particularly popular with night owls and early birds as it opens in the early morning hours.
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The simple but very stylish interior of the popular Café Museum was originally designed by the architect Adolf Loos. The back room has tables for card games and chess (see p77).
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A traditional café just off the main shopping drag with the obligatory variety of coffees, cakes, snacks and newspapers. A great break from nearby shopping.
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This café has been in business for more than 120 years and has a reputation of being frequented by the city’s artists, actors and nobles. It is just as popular today as it has always been (see p77).
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Do An prepares a varied cuisine – the smoked tofu with sautéed courgettes, carrots and spring onions is delicious.
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A good spot for a drink in the evening but also a place to enjoy excellent food. There is an extensive wine list and a great selection of whiskies.
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Guzzi offers a daily changing midday menu with international specialities, as well as wines from Austria and Italy.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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