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The Demel is Vienna’s most refined retreat for cake-lovers. Opened in 1786, by the mid-19th century it had become a hotspot for the Viennese upper classes, even providing Empress Sisi with her favourite sweet, violet sorbet.

The bustling Hawelka, opened in the 1930s, offers old-world charm. The owners often took paintings from artists in exchange for food – as a result the walls are covered with works by Ernst Fuchs, among others.

One of the city’s best-known cafés, the Central was the meeting place for Vienna’s intellectuals at the turn of the 19th century – the poet Peter Altenberg gathered a literary circle and he even had his mail delivered here. Leon Trotsky was also one of the regulars during his Vienna exile prior to World War I. Today the Central serves almost 1,000 cups of coffee a day in its elegant setting (see p94).

Franz Landtmann opened his café in 1873. Sigmund Freud used to have his morning coffee here, as did the artistic director of the Burgtheater, Max Reinhardt. Landtmann bustles with activity day and night and the four rooms are elegantly decorated with velvet upholstery, crystal light fixtures and mirrors with inlaid wood.

Established in 1923, the Diglas has marble tables, wooden chairs and little window booths fitted with red velvet sofas. The newspaper rack and the cakes – slices are served with a small mountain of whipped cream – are obligatory (see p94).

Bräunerhof has a true living-room atmosphere. The furniture is cosy but worn, thanks to a stream of customers dating back to the 1900s. It has always been a literary café – the writers Alfred Polgar and Hugo von Hofmannsthal were regular visitors (see p94).

Founded in 1848, the Café Griensteidl became a meeting place for Vienna revolutionaries (see p41) as well as poets and artists. In summer visitors can sit outside and enjoy the view of the Hofburg opposite.

This café was originally designed by the minimalist architect Adolf Loos in 1899 and reflects his anti-ornamental aesthetic. Recently it has been revamped by a modern designer.

The Art Nouveau Prückel opened in 1903. The back room, the Golden Hall, is preserved in its original style.

This café was built in grand style in 1880 and the regulars (the Sperlianer) have always been artists, singers, and musicians from the nearby Theater an der Wien. Concerts take place every Sunday afternoon from September to June (see p116).