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Viennese life revolves around the waltz – at least during Fasching , the period between Christmas and Lent, when the social calendar is packed with evenings of ballroom dancing. Balls in the Hofburg Palace are the most splendid, but you will find dances every evening in many of Vienna’s hotels, concert halls and once a year in the State Opera House (see p31).

The annual theatre festival takes place in May and June, when productions by theatre and dance companies are staged at venues such as the Museums-quartier, the Ronacher and Theater an der Wien (see pp56–7).

Houses of classical music such as the State Opera and the Konzerthaus turn into jazz venues during Vienna’s annual Jazzfest. From mid-June until early July, world-famous jazz musicians perform all over Vienna.

In the weeks before Christmas you will find numerous markets across Vienna’s squares and pedestrianized zones. The stalls sell mainly small gifts and Christmas decorations, as well as punch and hot spiced wine to warm you on cold winter evenings.

Every July and August the square in front of Vienna’s Town Hall turns into a bustling hub for music-lovers. Every evening crowds flock to watch concerts and opera and operetta performances broadcast on a huge video screen. Just as popular are the food stalls that take you on a culinary journey across the globe – Mexican, Japanese, Greek and Austrian specialities can all be found.

Also in July and August, Vienna turns into the capital of dance when the international dance festival takes place at various theatres.

This festival is dedicated to music in all its variations, but mainly concentrates on rarely performed operas, concerts with world-famous orchestras, as well as solo concerts of rare pieces of chamber music. It takes place in July and August.

The Viennale, the city’s film festival, takes place in October every year. Many special films are shown that would probably not make it to Vienna’s mainstream cinemas in other circumstances. Accompanying debates and events are held in a tent in Stadtpark.

Austria’s Easter tradition is to decorate branches of pussy willow with painted eggshells hung on a string. Easter Egg Markets, with eggs in all colours and shades, are also held on squares and in front of churches.

For seven nights in September there are dance or music performances representing the different cultures living in Vienna in this colourful, multiethnic event. (Hallamasch is Viennese slang meaning “the best of all mixed together”.) The Parade of the Cultures is the highlight of the festival, brimming with life.