Mere specks in the Caribbean, the US and British Virgin Islands sit within eyesight of each other. The Stars and Stripes flutters over St. Croix, St. John, and St. Thomas and the Union Jack over Tortola, Virgin Gorda, and the outer islands, but all offer tropical sun, soft sand beaches, and turquoise sea. In both territories motorists drive on the left, a decidedly British practice, while the US dollar serves as legal tender. However, each island has its own ambience, from the bustle in St. Thomas to downright sleepiness in the outer BVIs.
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Take a trip back in time to the Lawaetz family estate (seeCarl & Marie Lawaetz Museum) in Little LaGrange, managed by the St. Croix Landmarks Society with Lawaetz family members often serving as tour guides. Carl Lawaetz, originally from Denmark, bought the property in 1896 after serving six years as its overseer. Marie arrived from Denmark in 1902 after Carl courted her long distance. Their gardens and furnishings, now antiques, remain to remind visitors of another era.
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Lifelong friendships between islanders and visitors can begin when they share a patch of sidewalk at the annual April Carnival parade. It’s easy to strike up a conversation by asking polite questions. The day-long parade features colorful floats, troupes, and floupes, which are floats with troupes parading behind.
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Tucked away in the hills above Christiansted, this sophisticated B&B has five rooms with floral themes and private baths.
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Off the beaten path, but easy to get to, Estate Catherineberg served as headquarters for the Amina warriors during the 1733 slave uprising. The windmill and other ruins of this 1718 site are St. John’s best-preserved examples of the period. To find it, turn off Centerline Road mid-island at a large Virgin Islands National Park sign. The sign is easiest to see if you’re driving from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay.
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As you head from Cruz Bay toward Coral Bay, take time to stop at this small overlook midway between Catherineburg Ruins (seeCatherineberg Ruins) and Bordeaux Overlook. A National Park sign points out the features spread out before you.
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Amateur groups perform early Christmas morning in Emancipation Garden.
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This bustling town hides its history behind the doors of busy shops, but savvy strollers stop for a look at the buildings’ interesting architecture and old stone walls. The town area is anchored by the huge red Fort Christian on the east and, to the west, the covered market where planters once bought slaves, now used as a produce and crafts market. To the south sits a lively harbor, and, to the north, hillside streets filled with colonial homes and other historic buildings (seeHistoric Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas).
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White lace tablecloths, a rustic interior, and fine views set the stage for a lovely dining experience. Basics such as fish, lamb, and beef are accompanied by flavorsome sauces. The chocolate cups filled with berries and Chambord are heavenly (seeChateaux Bordeaux).
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One of the island’s finest, with an inspired international menu and a good wine list (seeChateau Bordeaux, St. John).
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Casual outdoor dining.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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Restaurant price categories
Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
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