Practical Info
This section covers all the pre-travel basics to help you plan your trip - and how to get around once you've arrived. This is where to find out what paperwork you'll need, what to do about currency, food, avoiding cultural faux pas, web access, public transport, car rental, what plug to use – everything you need to feel informed, confident and ready to travel.
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Arriving in the Virgin Islands
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Getting There
Major airlines fly direct to St. Thomas and St. Croix from airports on the US mainland. Or you can fly into these islands, and also Virgin Gorda and Tortola, from the US, Europe, or South America via San Juan, Puerto Rico. Anegada can be reached from St. Thomas via Tortola. There are no flights to St. John; it’s reached via ferry from St. Thomas.
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Airfares
Airfares vary widely, depending on season and sales. Doublecheck with the airline, Internet suppliers, and your travel agent to find the best price. Some wholesalers offer great airfare and hotel packages.
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Henry E. Rohlsen Airport, St. Croix
An international airport near the western end of St. Croix near Frederiksted, this has a casual restaurant, a few shops, and rental car agencies. Flights arrive here from the US mainland and other Caribbean Islands.
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Cyril E. King Airport, St. Thomas
Several hotels sit near this international airport, which is a 10-minute ride from Charlotte Amalie and about a half-hour ride away from Red Hook. It has a small restaurant, a gift shop, and rental car agencies.
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Terrence B. Lettsome International Airport, Beef Island,Tortola
The airport handles only smaller planes arriving from San Juan, St. Thomas, and other Caribbean Islands. If you’re stranded here, you can browse the few small shops or take the free ferry to Pusser’s Restaurant on nearby Marina Cay (seeMarina Cay).
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Airports in Virgin Gorda & Anegada
With its Band Aid-sized runway, Virgin Gorda’s airport is on the ramshackle side, but that’s part of the charm of arriving here. Procedures are casual, too. A shack at the edge of the tiny runway, Anegada’s Auguste George International Airport is served only by Clair Aero and charter flights.
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Seaplane
Island-hopping is fairly easy with Seaborne Airlines’ flights between in-town waterfront locations in Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, and Christiansted and Frederiksted, St. Croix. Midday rates are lower.
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USVI to Tortola Ferries
Ferries connect Charlotte Amalie and Red Hook on St. Thomas with West End and Road Town on Tortola. From Cruz Bay, St. John, you can catch a ferry to West End.
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Ferries to Virgin Gorda & the Outer Islands
Ferry connections (on the unreliable side) link Charlotte Amalie, Road Town, and Cruz Bay to Virgin Gorda, and to Jost Van Dyke from West End and Cruz Bay. Hotels on the outer islands and in remote locations run their own ferries from Tortola (seeVirgin Gorda & the Outer Islands).
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St. Thomas to St. John Ferries
Ferries shunt between Red Hook, St. Thomas, and Cruz Bay, St. John, on the hour. There are also round trips to Cruz Bay from Charlotte Amalie several times a day.
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Getting Around
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Taxis
Taxi drivers in both the USVI and BVI are of two types – helpful or shockingly rude. Taxis are plentiful at airports, docks, and hotels on the more populated islands. If you plan to go off the beaten path, ask your hotel or villa manager to line up a taxi. It’s pointless to argue about overcharging – chalk it up to the cost of vacationing.
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Car Rentals
A few brand names such as Hertz and Avis operate in St. Thomas, St. Croix, Tortola, and Virgin Gorda, but most car rentals are local companies. Ask your hotel for recommendations. It’s best to reserve before you travel. Rates are high.
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Types of Vehicles
Get a vehicle with four-wheel drive and high clearance to drive on the dirt roads. Visitors to more populated islands should ensure their vehicles have a hard top and locks to prevent theft.
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Motorscooters
Motorscooter rentals seem to come and go, particularly on St. John, but in general they’re a bad idea. Traffic moves at a good clip and sudden rain showers make for slippery roads, both creating conditions that can lead to accidents. Don’t be tempted by a price lower than a rental car.
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Rules of the Road
Drivers in both the USVI and BVI drive on the left side of the road in left-hand drive vehicles. On all islands, drivers are prone to stop for a chat with someone walking along the road, causing dangerous traffic conditions as impatient motorists try to pass on a curve. Use caution.
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Road Conditions
Roads range from a major highway in St. Croix to sandy tracks in Anegada, with every permutation in between. The roads on the mountainous islands twist and turn. On the more populated islands, the main roads and many secondary roads are paved, but you’ll find dirt roads everywhere.
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Driver’s Licenses
While your current driver’s license will do to rent and drive a vehicle in the USVI, the BVI requires that all visiting drivers also purchase a temporary BVI license, available at all car rental agencies – you must present your regular driver’s license for this.
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Buses
The USVI has VITRAN buses, though the service is unreliable in St. Croix and St. Thomas. For patient folks, they’re a good way to sightsee at minimal cost. BVI has no public bus service.
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Hitchhiking
Hitchhiking is an accepted way to get around in the USVI and BVI, but think twice about it in St. Thomas and St. Croix. It’s a bit safer on other islands, but use caution. Stick out your forefinger to indicate you want a ride, pointing in the direction you wish to go.
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Addresses
Addresses in both the USVI and BVI are horribly confusing. In Charlotte Amalie and Christiansted, the buildings have numbers that often don’t make sense. Out in the country, it’s even worse. Make sure you have a map and written directions.
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General Information
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When to Go
The islands are a year-round destination, though more visitors come in winter than in summer. Daytime temperatures run in the low to mid-80s (27ºC) in winter, with the summer months about 10 degrees (12ºC) higher. It can rain at any time of the year.
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Hurricane Season
Although hurricane season officially runs June 1 to November 30, it starts to ramp up in mid-August, reaching its peak in mid-September. The weather can be quite hot at that time. Hotel rates are temptingly low during this season, but you may have to cut your vacation short if a hurricane threatens.
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USVI: Passports & Visas
US citizens can enter the USVI without a passport and stay as long as they like, but they need to show a passport, voter’s registration card, or birth certificate when they leave. Citizens of some countries such as the UK need a passport but no visa for up to three months. Check the US State Department’s website for information.
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BVI: Passports & Visas
In theory, Canadian and US citizens only need a birth certificate to enter the BVI, but in practice, the Immigration officers prefer a passport from everyone including British citizens. Stays of over a month require a visa. Visitors from some countries need a visa for entry.
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USVI: Customs & Immigration
You do not have to clear Customs and Immigration on flights into the USVI from the US mainland and Puerto Rico, but you will when departing. Passengers arriving on flights or ferry boats from Caribbean countries, including the BVI, must clear in. Fruit may be confiscated when arriving from Caribbean countries or when departing for the US.
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BVI: Customs & Immigration
All arriving airline and ferry passengers except for those coming from other islands in the BVI must clear in. You may be questioned at Customs about objects such as cameras and computers.
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Language
Most USVI and BVI residents born in the Caribbean speak standard English with a distinctive accent, as well as their native English Creole. It can sometimes be difficult to understand them, but don’t be shy about asking them in a friendly way to repeat what they have said. Keep in mind that they may have trouble understanding you as well.
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Time Zone
The USVI and BVI are on Atlantic Standard Time (GMT – 4). In winter, this puts them an hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time, but when the US goes on Daylight Saving Time, the USVI and BVI do not change. This means that in summer, island time is the same as on the US East Coast.
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Departure Tax
There is no departure tax from the USVI, but the BVI charges $10 per person for airline passengers, $5 per person for boat passengers, and $10 per person for cruise ship passengers. This fee is often included in your fare when traveling on a cruise or with a group.
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Etiquette
Although most restaurants are alfresco, some have no smoking sections. The legal age for drinking in the USVI is 18; it is 16 in the BVI. Enforcement varies, but if you look younger than those ages, be prepared to show identification.
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Facts & Figures
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Population
The USVI officially has 108,612 inhabitants, with 53,234 on St. Croix, 51,181 on St. Thomas, and 4,197 on St. John. The total count of people in the BVI is 20,988, with 17,233 on Tortola. Virgin Gorda has 3,174 inhabitants, Jost Van Dyke 211, and Anegada 182. The rest of the 188 people are scattered about on small cays and boats.
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Racial Distribution
The majority of USVI and BVI residents are black descendents of slaves brought over from West Africa. Only in St. John does the number of white residents approach that of black. The Hispanic population is fairly large in St. Croix, and is growing on other islands through immigration.
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Political Status
The USVI is an Unincorporated Territory of the US. Its residents are US citizens, but cannot vote in presidential elections. The BVI is a Crown Colony of the UK. Its residents are British citizens, but may only vote locally.
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USVI Congressional Representation
USVI voters elect a delegate to the US House of Representatives. She has no vote in either congressional committees or on the floor, but does lobby for federal funding for the territory. She has offices Washington, St. Croix, St. John, and St. Thomas. The USVI is considered one district. It has no representative in the US Senate.
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Island Top Officials
Every four years, USVI voters elect a governor and lieutenant governor. They also elect a 15-member one-house Legislature every two years. In the BVI, voters elect a 13-member unicameral Legislative Council every four years. The Queen appoints the BVI governor, who in turn appoints the chief minister from among the members of the Legislative Council.
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Local Government
In the USVI, the governor appoints his cabinet members, who head different departments. Several semi-autonomous agencies oversee power and water generation, the ports and airports, and the university. In the BVI, members of the Legislative Council appointed to the cabinet by the governor oversee the various departments.
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Churches & Synagogues
There are churches at nearly every bend in the road in the VI. Many are mainline denominations such as Anglican, Catholic, and Moravian, but there are an increasing number of evangelical churches with no denominational affiliation. St. Thomas has a synagogue (seeSt. Thomas Synagogue). Visitors are welcome at religious services, but wear your Sunday finery.
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BVI Economy
While tourism is a mainstay and the most visible part of the islands’ economy, the BVI’s huge offshore banking industry is equally important. A total of 51,697 companies are registered in the BVI, but most of them merely funnel their paperwork through small Tortola-based companies set up to deal with multitudes of companies.
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USVI Economy
Tourism is the heart of the USVI economy, although St. Croix does have the huge Hovensa oil refinery that employs more workers than any other private company. The island also has a few watch factories and a rum factory.
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Tourism
More tourists visit both the USVI and BVI in winter. However, both can be visited year-round. The USVI sees 2.4 million visitors a year, with 2.2 million of them visiting St. Thomas/St. John. In the BVI, the vast majority of the 543,423 tourists visit Tortola.
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Sources of Information
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USVI Tourist Board
The government has offices in large cities across the US and in Canada, England, and Denmark. Call up or check the official website for access to information.
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BVI Tourist Board
The BVI Tourist Board has a few offices scattered across Europe and the US, but the fastest way to get information is to call up the info line or access the Board’s comprehensive website, which features some useful articles under BVIslands Magazine.
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Caribbean Vacation Planner
Check out this slick book of the Caribbean Tourism Organization. Its website is very useful; it provides an excellent overview of the Caribbean chain and specifics on each island as well as the latest on deals and events.
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Travel Talk On-line
Visit this website to ask questions and find out what other folks have to say about your intended holiday destination. Easy to use, the website has useful information and a pleasant tone.
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St. Croix This Week
This free publication with its familiar pink cover is chock full of information and advertisements about St. Croix. You can find it at the airport, hotels, tourism offices, and other places. Subscriptions are available.
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St. John Guidebook
With cartoons as well as the requisite advertisements, this small booklet provides a humorous insight into St. John life. Pick up a free copy at the Cruz Bay ferry dock or the tourism office, or order by mail. The online version isn’t nearly as funny.
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St. Thomas/St. John This Week
The granddaddy of all USVI and BVI tourism magazines, this free magazine with its well-known yellow cover is filled with information and advertisements about St. Thomas and St. John. Get a copy at the airport and numerous locations in the islands. You can also subscribe.
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The BVI Welcome
This classy free publication, available at various locations, comes out every other month. In addition to the usual advertisements, it has articles on current events. The magazine’s website is also very helpful. Subscriptions to the US are $25 a year.
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Bookstores
Find books about the USVI and BVI at gift shops and bookstores in St. Thomas and St. Croix.
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The Weather Channel
Cable television channels in the USVI and BVI carry this useful station with its frequent updates on local weather. Its Tropical Weather update at 10 minutes to the hour during the hurricane season is especially helpful.
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Banking & Communications
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Money
Both the USVI and BVI use US currency. US dollars were introduced in the BVI in the mid-20th century, when BVIers went to nearby USVI to work. This led them to abandon the barter system previously in use. The US dollar became legal tender in the BVI in 1959.
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Changing Money
Changing foreign currency is difficult. Only Scotia Bank branches in St. Croix, St. John, St. Thomas, and Tortola will exchange small amounts of some currencies. You must show identification. It’s easier to change money into US dollars before you leave home or in major airports.
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Credit Cards & Traveler’s Checks
Most shops, restaurants, car rental companies, attractions, and hotels take credit cards, but in the outer BVIs you may find an occasional one that doesn’t. Traveler’s checks are usually accepted, but small businesses may not be able to make change for large denominations.
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ATMs
ATMs accept cards from most systems, but there is usually a charge. Find ATMs at banks and supermarkets in St. Croix, St. John, St. Thomas, and Tortola. Outer BVI islands do not have banks.
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Post Offices
Except for the tiniest islands in the BVI, all USVI and BVI islands have post offices. Outer island hotels often have boxes at the front desk to drop off your postcards home. Don’t expect speedy delivery.
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Cell Phones
Some systems work, some don’t. Your chances are better in the USVI if you have a US company such as Cingular Wireless. In the BVI, you may get lucky if you phone from high elevations or along the coast. Visitors can buy Cingular and Sprint cell phones in the USVI and Cable and Wireless cell phones in the BVI, though local cell phones are not likely to work any better.
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Pay Phones
You’ll find pay phones on most islands. Most phones charge 25 cents, but some privately owned phones are 35 cents. A phone card, available at pharmacies, department stores, and gift shops, is your best bet for making long distance calls. BVI phones only use phone cards bought in the BVI.
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Internet
Internet access is available in unlikely places like restaurants, bars and business offices. Many larger hotels provide complimentary Internet service at their business center. Check with your own Internet Service Provider if they have a number to use in the islands. Otherwise, you’re faced with expenisve international phone rates.
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Newspapers
TheDaily News andSt. Croix Avis in St. Croix and St. Thomas cover international events as well as USVI news. St. John has two papers, theSt. John Times andTradewinds , both carrying local news. In the BVI, read local news in theBeacon, Island Sun , and theBVI Standpoint .
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Television/Radio
While most hotels in the USVI and Tortola have at least a basic cable television service, those in Virgin Gorda and the outer islands may not. Hotels without television service may provide a VCR to watch movies. Car radio stations play everything from reggae to classical.
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Surviving the Tropics
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Sunburn
Slather on sunscreen to prevent sunburn. The tropical sun burns brightest between 10am and 2pm, so try and keep in the shade during those hours. Wear a hat, lightweight long-sleeved shirts, and long pants, and remember to keep your feet covered.
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Bugs
Bugs are a fact of life in the tropics. While larger hotels annihilate bug populations with chemical sprays, you won’t find that so everywhere. After a few days of rain, the mosquitoes come out. A nifty device, called a mosquito whacker, found at hardware stores and supermarkets, is quite handy.
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Rain
Brief showers occur quite often, but occasionally you can get deluges that last for days. While this can put a damper on your vacation, it helps keep the island green. Carry an umbrella and bring some good books to while away the rainy hours.
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Hospitals
Roy L. Schneider Hospital in St. Thomas and Juan F. Luis Hospital in St. Croix are the best equipped and can handle everything from heart attacks to broken legs. Tortola has Peebles Hospital. St. John, Virgin Gorda, Jost Van Dyke, and Anegada all have small clinics, but serious cases go by air or ferry to the hospitals.
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Doctors
You will find qualified doctors in both the USVI and BVI, but it’s a matter of luck. Ask at your hotel for their recommendations. Some hotels have affiliations with doctors they trust.
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Hyperbaric Chamber
Roy L. Schneider Hospital in St. Thomas has the only hyperbaric, or decompression, chamber in the USVI and BVI. The chamber helps divers who have got the bends to decompress. A spell in the chamber takes the excess nitrogen out of the diver’s blood. Without the chamber, the bends can be painful, and sometimes fatal.
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Pharmacies
Find full service pharmacies in St. Croix, St. John, St. Thomas, Tortola, and Virgin Gorda. While pharmacists will usually fill prescriptions issued outside the islands or will contact your doctor if necessary, your best bet is to come with a large enough supply to last throughout your stay. Prices at island pharmacies are usually higher than you’ll find in other locations.
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Dentists
Good dental care is available in the USVI and Tortola, but ask your hotel to recommend one. Dentists are usually willing to fit in emergency cases. If you are used to having the dentist bill your insurance company for dental procedures, you may have to pay upfront and submit a claim to the insurance company.
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Electricity
Outlets in both the USVI and BVI produce 110 volts. However, power surges and outages are common even in well-developed areas. Use a surge protector for your computer. Larger hotels have generators that flip on automatically during outages, but at smaller properties you’ll have to light candles. Bring a flashlight. When the power goes out, the toilet doesn’t flush.
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Water
Large hotels have reverse osmosis plants to desalinize sea water. The water is tested regularly to ensure its quality. Smaller hotels depend on cisterns to collect rainwater. The water may, or may not, go through a filtration system. If you’re unsure, drink bottled water. Water may be in short supply, so you may be asked to limit your water usage.
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Safety Tips
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Avoid Unsafe Areas
St. Croix and St. Thomas have some areas that are decidedly unsafe for visitors even during daylight hours. Nighttime can also be problematic at some locations on the larger islands. Your hotel can advise you in both cases.
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Use Hotel Room Safes
Larger hotels have room safes. Use them to protect your valuables while you’re out of the room. It’s worth the slight charge. Don’t stash your wallet under the mattress or carry everything with you.
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Don’t Carry Drugs
It is illegal to possess or use non-prescription drugs such as marijuana, heroin, and cocaine in the USVI and BVI. Tourists are rarely approached to buy drugs, but it does happen. While enforcement is lax and penalties for simple possession small, getting caught could ruin your vacation.
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Avoid Assault
Vacationers are seldom robbery, assault, or murder victims, but it can occur. If you are accosted, hand over your wallet or jewelry before the criminal is tempted to use his gun. Call the police immediately. If you are a single woman, don’t leave bars or parties with men you’ve just met.
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Carry Minimal Cash
With few exceptions, credit cards are accepted all over the USVI and BVI. You will find automatic teller machines, called cash machines, at banks and in some stores. Traveler’s checks are also accepted at many businesses. Therefore, keep cash in your pocket to a minimum so you won’t tempt thieves.
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Don’t Leave Valuables on the Beach
It’s easy for thieves to snatch your valuables while you’re in the water or asleep. Leave your expensive camera locked in your hotel room safe. If you must carry it around, lock it in your vehicle trunk before you park at the beach.
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Use Waterproof Containers
Buy a handy cylindrical container on a string to stash your cash, jewelry, and other small valuables while swimming. The container hangs around your neck for wearing in the water. Dive and gift shops carry these objects in the section with beach accessories.
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Don’t Leave Valuables in Sight in Your Vehicle
Thieves have tools to quickly open your vehicle. Even if you’re only gone for a minute, you could return to find your stuff gone. Lock items in the trunk before entering the parking area. Thieves commonly watch parking lots at popular spots to look for ripe pickings.
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Take Care on Deserted Beaches
Think twice before pulling over at that lovely deserted beach for a bit of solitude. On smaller islands, you’ll be fine, but in places such as St. Croix and St. Thomas, you may be asking for trouble. Check with your hotel on beach safety.
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Be Careful on Back Roads
In general, getting off the beaten path is perfectly safe as long as you use common sense. If an area looks unsavory, keep driving. Don’t linger if a suspicious looking character approaches your car. Make sure your vehicle has enough gas when you start your exploring so you won’t be stranded.
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Getting Married
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Getting Married in the USVI
Apply for a marriage license at the Territorial Courts. The fee is $50 for the application and $50 for the license. You must wait eight days after the clerk receives the application. Licenses must be picked up in person.
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Getting Married in the BVI
Apply in person for your license Monday through Friday at the Registrar’s office in Tortola. The license costs $110. You must wait three days to get married. You’ll need to arrange for banns to be published for three consecutive Sundays for a church wedding.
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Officiates
In the USVI, a judge of the Territorial Court performs ceremonies at the court for $200. Clergy will officiate in a church. Most couples opt for a ceremony by a person certified by a non-denominational church and licensed by the government. In the BVI, only the registrar (who charges $135) or clergy can perform ceremonies.
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Wedding Planner
Wedding planners help with finding a minister, rabbi, or registrar, hire reliable florists and musicians, and ensure a smooth ceremony. Many in the USVI are certified to perform ceremonies.
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Packages
Many hotels offer packages that include the wedding ceremony and the honeymoon, and often have extras such as boat rides, and champagne dinners. Some places have packages that include accommodations for your wedding party and guests. Wedding planners also offer various packages.
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Locations
Some people opt for a ceremony at one of the islands’ small churches, but most head for the beach, a garden, or even a remote cay. Whim Plantation Museum and St. George Village Botanical Garden (seeSt. George Village Botanical Garden), both in St. Croix, make lovely wedding locations. Hotels with spacious grounds often have places set aside just for weddings.
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Flowers
The bride’s bouquet and groom’s boutonnière are usually included in hotel or wedding planner packages. The islands’ flora serves as a backdrop for your ceremony.
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Photography
Your hotel or wedding planner will usually have a professional photographer on tap. Some packages include an album of photos sent later to your home, but many photographers give you the film to have developed at home.
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Transportation
If you’ve always dreamed of arriving at your wedding ceremony in a stretch limousine, opt for a wedding in St. Thomas. Or you can drive yourself in a rental car to your informal ceremony at a beach or garden.
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Music
You can hire a band if you’re having a big shindig, but most couples have only a solo musician to entertain at their beach or garden ceremony. Your hotel or wedding planner will make recommendations if this does not come with your package.
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Visitors with Special Concerns
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Gay & Lesbian Travelers
There are small gay and lesbian communities on most islands. Gay bars seem to come and go, so ask at your hotel. St. Croix has two beachfront resorts that cater to gay and lesbian visitors.
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Seniors
Senior discounts are not common at Virgin Islands hotels and car rental agencies, but ask anyway. While ferry companies advertise senior fares, visitors are not eligible. Seniors worried about emergency medical care should stick to St. Croix and St. Thomas, which have hospitals.
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Singles
Single vacationers can enjoy the busy bar scene on all islands. St. John’s Virgin Islands National Park offers ranger-led hiking and snorkeling programs that draw a mix of visitors. Stay at small hotels or inns where the staff will make introductions.
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Disabled Travelers
The situation is improving, but disabled visitors will not find uniform easy access. Some places have curb cuts, a few hotels offer rooms with wide doorways (seeSecret Harbour Beach Resort, St. Thomas), and some buildings have ramps, but these are rare cases. have a huge surcharge added to your fare if you take your pet in a taxi.
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Children
The islands are family friendly. Hotels offer kids’ programs, there are many child-oriented attractions, and the beach is a great place for youngsters to let off steam. Spend Sunday at a popular beach to give your kids a chance to meet local children (seeThings for Kids).
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Babysitters
Many hotels and vacation villa managers have lists of reliable babysitters. Check at the front desk or concierge of your hotel or ask your villa manager. Rates vary by time of day and number of children.
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Alcoholics & Drug Abusers
Alcoholics Anonymous, Narcotics Anonymous, and other self-help groups meet on most islands. Check local newspapers for meeting times and places or call up. Alcohol and drug abuse are serious problems in the islands, and these groups have helped many people. Visitors are welcome at meetings.
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Pets
Dogs and cats can enter the USVI with health and rabies certificates from their home veterinarian. A local vet must issue the same certificates when leaving. In the BVI, you need an Agriculture Department import permit. You may have a huge surcharge added to your fare if you take your pet in a taxi.
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Honeymooners
Both the USVI and BVI are honeymoon heavens, and many hotels offer special honeymoon packages. Palm-fringed beaches, starlight nights, intimate restaurants, and lazy days in a hammock promote romance, and some couples return year after year to celebrate their anniversary.
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Rotarians
Many Rotary clubs meet weekly at restaurants throughout the USVI and BVI. Ask at your hotel for a meeting location near you. It’ll give you a chance to meet the islands’ influential people.
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Ways to Save Money
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Carry Frozen Water
You can work up a major thirst in the hot tropical climate. If you have a refrigerator in your hotel room, do what islanders do – freeze bottles of water for use when you’re out so you can drink the water as it melts. The bottles will sweat, so wrap in a washcloth and place in a plastic bag.
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Pack a Picnic Lunch or Dinner
Instead of eating at the hotel’s dining room, buy picnic fixings at the local supermarket. If you don’t have a rental car, you may find a convenience store within walking distance of your hotel. Many hotels have their own convenience stores. Even if you must pay high prices at those stores, it’s still cheaper than dining at a restaurant.
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Rent a Condominium or Villa
Get more space plus save money by cooking meals when you rent a condominium or villa. Most come with a full set of kitchenware and gadgets. Even if local supermarket prices make you gasp, you’ll still save money over eating out. Useful option when traveling with children.
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Camp
If island hotel rates are out of your price range, trying camping. The Cinnamon Bay Campground in St. John (seeCinnamon Bay Campground, St. John) gives you the best deal for renting a space if you bring your own tent. Campgrounds also rent tents already in place as well as cooking gear and coolers.
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Shop at Supermarkets
You can pick up the ingredients for a full-course dinner complete with a dessert at the islands’ supermarkets, but it’s their take-out sections that tempt most vacationers. While the prices are on the high side, most supermarkets sell full dinners hot and ready for eating. Don’t look for extensive salad bars such as those you’ll find at many US supermarkets.
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Take the Bus
The USVI’s VITRAN bus service is slower than molasses, but it gives you an unusual look at the islands. Bus stops are marked along major roadways. Check with the driver to determine its destination. The bus is also a low-cost way to see the islands and to mingle with the locals. There is no regular bus service in the BVI.
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Use the Book Exchange
Rather than trying to find a good read at gift shops and the bookstores in St. Thomas and St. Croix, ask around for a book exchange at hotels and marinas. There’s no requirement to leave a book when you take one, but they’re a good place to get rid of the already read books you brought from home.
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Bring Small Quantities of Staples from Home
Pack small amounts of coffee, tea bags, and spices in your luggage to avoid paying top dollar at island stores for larger quantities than you can consume during your trip.
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Eat at Places with Early Bird Specials
A few restaurants have early bird specials, but you won’t find the menu as extensive as later in the evening. However, you’ll have plenty to pick from, the restaurant will be less crowded, and you’ll have the rest of the evening to enjoy a stroll on the beach. Ask at your hotel for suggestions.
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Go Before or After Hours at Beaches That Charge Admission
Trunk Bay in St. John and Magens Bay in St. Thomas charge a nominal admission fee, but if you have a family, the dollars add up. Wait until late afternoon, when the fee collector goes home, for a trip to the beach. In summer, you’ll still have several hours of daylight to enjoy the beach.
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Local Quirks
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Dress
Virgin Islanders put great store in appearances. Bathing suits are for the beach only. Even a cover-up over swim-wear won’t do for the islands’ cities, towns, and shopping areas. Nudity is never allowed. You can get by with shorts and t-shirts at most casual restaurants, but more expensive places ask that you dress up a bit.
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Manners
Remember to start your conversations with good morning, good afternoon, and good evening as the case may be. Islanders think such niceties are important. Hello and a smile doesn’t quite do it. While folks are generally courteous to visitors, you may find some who go out of their way to be rude. Don’t let it ruin your vacation.
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Eye Contact & Handshakes
While you may be used to firmly grasping an extended hand and looking the other person square in the eye when saying hello, islanders may be more reserved. Handshakes are likely to be on the limp side and islanders almost never look you in the eye. Don’t let this be a deterrent to making new friends.
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Efficiency
While you do find pockets of efficiency, some procedures will leave you gasping at the convoluted way things are done. The heat adds to the general slowness. Things are improving as more and more companies get computers, but in the meantime, just adapt to the slow pace.
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Holidays
Both the USVI and BVI celebrate the usual festivals, but there are dozens of others you’ve never heard of that merit days off. When Carnival, or whatever name a particular island uses to designate the event, happens, the entire place seems to shut down.
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Roaming Animals
Look out for stray beasts while driving – cows, goats, horses, dogs, and cats all roam at will. The Agriculture Department is cracking down on this, but progress is slow. Dogs and cats dart through some restaurants looking for handouts, and a cat or two may come begging at your vacation villa.
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Walk on the Left
While it’s easy to see that vehicles use the left side of the road, sidewalk procedures are less obvious. Walk on the left to keep foot traffic flowing. In places swarming with tourists, you may find the situation a bit confused as visitors used to keeping right continue to do so while residents stick to their usual practice of keeping to the left.
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Trash
Residents of both the USVI and BVI are just starting to catch on to the fact that trash strewn along the sides of the road looks unsightly. Yet, don’t be surprised if you see a driver pitch a soda can out the window. They also throw out fruit skins, but that isn’t as serious a problem as the tropical heat rots them quickly.
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Treatment of Animals
Animal rights societies are making strides, but many people continue to mistreat animals of all sizes. Pit bulls and other aggressive dog breeds are extremely popular, but their owners train them with abuse. If you see what looks like a bad case of animal mishandling, call the police – don’t get involved personally.
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Loud Ambience
Tropical life plays out at top volume and with the windows open. If you dislike loud music, make sure your hotel or vacation villa isn’t downwind of a place that has loud music until the wee hours. As for voice levels, what seems to be a heated argument between two islanders may merely be a casual conversation.
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Shopping Tips
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Bargaining
Bargaining usually only works at USVI and BVI markets or small stores where the proprietor serves as the salesclerk, but if you’re buying in bulk or a slightly damaged item, it doesn’t hurt to ask. Most prices in the USVI are already duty-free, as the sales people will be quick to point out when you ask for a discount.
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Store Hours
Store hours vary, but most shops open at 9am or 10am. They usually close at around 5pm, but may stay open a bit later during the busier winter season. Most stores are closed Sundays and holidays except when cruise ships are in port. Stores near restaurants often stay open until around 9pm.
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Carry Water
The tropics are hot, a lot hotter than you can imagine if you come from a cool climate. Even if you don’t sweat, you’re still at risk of dehydration. To shop healthy, carry a bottle of water and drink from it all the time. Residents know that you can keep going a lot longer if you regularly sip from a water bottle.
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Wear Comfortable Shoes
While flimsy sandals look nice, shopping expeditions call for sturdy shoes. Sneakers with socks are fine. The socks help keep blisters at bay and soak up the sweat. If you don’t like the idea of enclosed feet, consider sturdy sandals with thick soles. These will help you navigate the often uneven sidewalks in shopping areas.
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Sales Tax
Shoppers pay no sales tax in the USVI and BVI. However, unseen taxes imposed by the governments abound. Store owners in the USVI pay a 4 percent gross receipts tax on all sales, and they pass that cost on to you. In the BVI, merchants must pay import duties, which again are ultimately paid by the customer.
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Shop at Home First for High-priced Purchases
If you plan to buy an expensive camera or piece of pricey jewelry, check prices at home before you head to the USVI and BVI. Prices on those items can be lower in the USVI, thanks to the territory’s duty-free status, but sometimes you can do better at your hometown discount or warehouse store or by shopping on the Internet.
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Knockoffs
When shopping in places like Vendors Plaza in St. Thomas or at fairs and festivals, make sure that Gucci bag or Rolex watch is the real thing. While the government has clamped down on vendors selling knock-offs, it still happens sometimes. If the price looks too good to be true, it probably is.
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Souvenirs
Both the USVI and BVI have numerous gift and jewelry stores to tempt you to part with big bucks. If you’re looking for bargains, shop at discount stores such as Kmart, which carry calendars with island scenes and all sorts of bric-a-brac ideal for taking home.
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Sales
Stores seldom have big blowout sales advertised in the local newspapers or sidewalk sale days. Instead, look for bargain racks, particularly on clothing and linen, during the summer and early fall months as stores strive to get rid of last year’s merchandise.
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Shipping
Many stores will ship your purchases nearly anywhere in the world for a fee. This makes sense for breakables, since the store assumes responsibility. If you want to do so yourself, ask for a box at a grocery store, buy tape, and head to the post office. Shipping to the US mainland is much cheaper in the USVI than the BVI.
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Food & Drink
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Supermarkets
Your best bets are the Plaza Extra stores in St. Croix and St. Thomas, Starfish Market in St. John, and Riteway or Bobby’s in Tortola. Virgin Gorda has a few small grocery stores, including Buck’s Food Market. The outer BVI islands don’t have supermarkets.
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Warehouse Stores
While the warehouse stores in St. Thomas and St. Croix pale in comparison to those found on the US mainland, they do sell items in bulk and often at lower prices than the supermarket. Cost-U-Less in these two islands has no membership fee.
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Fresh Fruits & Vegetables
If you shop right after a shipment arrives, you may find crisp vegetables and fruit. But shipping takes its toll and the farther you get from St. Thomas and St. Croix, the more wilted the produce. You can get local produce at roadside stands, but supply is erratic.
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Delicatessen
Some supermarkets have delicatessen counters that whip up sandwiches to go. They often have take-out foods ideal for picnics or meals at your vacation abode.
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Flexibility
If you’re cooking at your condominium or vacation villa, don’t fix your menu until you go shopping. Sometimes all the stores are out of an item that may be essential to your favorite dish.
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Liquor Stores
Liquor is sold at duty-free prices in the USVI. Tourist areas have a few liquor stores, but you’ll find a large selection and usually lower prices for common items such as gin at supermarkets and warehouse stores.
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Convenience Stores
Convenience stores carrying snacks and basic staples are scattered around the larger islands. In the outer BVI islands, these stores are the main shopping spots; unless you want to use precious vacation time heading to the larger islands, you’ll have to make do with them for your needs.
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Take-out Stands
Gaily painted trucks sit along the roads on larger islands, stocked with all manner of West Indian food. A few have tables outside, but usually you’ll have to take your lunch elsewhere to eat.
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Getting Provisions for Yachts or Villas
If you are chartering a bare boat (seeSailing in the British Virgin Islands), the company will stock it with foods of your choosing. Your villa manager will usually do the same. This saves you time and possibly money since the provisioners often deal with wholesalers.
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Private Chefs
Islands with large rosters of vacation villas have private chefs to cook tasty meals at your villa. They’ll clean up as well. And they’ll create just what you ordered.
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Accommodation Tips
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Pick Your Location
Some islands have overall cheaper prices than others, with St. Croix having the lowest rates. You’ll need to pay more for the privilege of staying on the beach on any island. A room with an ocean view is more expensive than one with a garden or city view, and in the few high-rise hotels, the top floors will probably cost you more.
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Rates
Rates drop drastically around April 15 and go up again around December 15 when folks from colder climates escape to the tropics. Rates at some hotels are at their peak between Christmas and New Year. In the USVI, hotel rates are high in mid-February when schools on the US mainland close for the week that includes the national holiday, President’s Day.
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Deals
During the slower summer season, hotels often offer packages that include some meals and extras such as champagne, massages, day sails, scuba dives, and car rentals. They can be great deals if you take advantage of the extras.
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Making Reservations
If you plan to visit during the busier winter season, it pays to book in advance if you’re picky about where you stay. Reservations are essential if you are visiting a BVI outer island. Note that some hotels have mailing addresses on other islands.
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Arriving Without Reservations
If you don’t have a hotel reservation, call hotels from the airport or ferry terminal. You can check out the free tourist magazines and the hotel advertisements in those places. If you are taking a taxi, booking your room before you leave the airport is a must. Taxi drivers are usually unwilling to drive from hotel to hotel for you to find a room.
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Tipping
In the USVI, tip between 15 and 20 percent in restaurants, depending on how pleased you are with the service. A service charge of anywhere from 10 to 15 percent is included at most BVI restaurants and hotels. A few USVI hotels also add a service charge. If they don’t, leave the maid a few dollars a day depending on the service.
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Phone Expenses
Some hotels charge for local phone calls and many charge for connecting to a long-distance carrier for credit card calls. Long-distance charges can be very high. You’ll definitely save on long-distance calls if you use a phone card and the lobby phone. Read the information provided in your room or check at the front desk before you dial.
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Parking
Most hotels have free parking, but it may not be next to your room. Parking in Charlotte Amalie, Christiansted, Cruz Bay, Road Town, and Spanish Town’s Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbor can be very tight. Only Charlotte Amalie and Christiansted have paid parking lots where you can usually find a space.
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Air Conditioning
Many hotels have air conditioning. However, smaller places and many vacation villas have windows open to the breeze. Unless your hotel room is in a pocket where the breezes don’t blow or you prefer chilled air, you probably won’t need to turn on the air conditioner.
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Hotel Tax
Both the USVI and BVI tack a hotel occupancy tax onto your rate. In the USVI, you’ll pay an additional 8 percent, and some St. John hoteliers also ask for a voluntary $1 a day donation. The St. John Accommodations Council uses the money to pay for good works. In the BVI, the hotel occupancy tax stands at 7 percent.
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