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The busy ferry port at Cruz Bay is most visitors’ first impression of the town and the island. But don’t let the cacophony of ferry noise and taxi drivers put you off. Outside the dock, the noise abates and the town unfolds. Small, with narrow streets carrying no discernible names, Cruz Bay offers visitors the Virgin Islands National Park Visitor’s Center (seeVirgin Islands National Park Visitor’s Center), restaurants, and shopping, but also serves as the heart of island life for St. John residents (seeStroll Through Cruz Bay, St. John).

A local favorite, Hawksnest Beach is a sandy stretch shaded by round-leafed seagrapes and towering palm trees. Keep a watch for falling coconuts. Part of the Virgin Islands National Park, the quiet beach has modest bathrooms and changing facilities, as well as shaded picnic pavilions. The snorkeling over the near-shore reefs is enjoyable, but experienced snorkelers may want to explore the rocks and pocket beach on the eastern shore.

Another local favorite, this small, sandy beach calls for a hike down a flight of stairs. That’s the easy part – you’ll also have to huff and puff back up. Some trees offer shade for folk who want to go easy on their tan, and there’s great snorkeling at the reef sitting just offshore. However, the water at this beach can get rough when winter swells roll in from the north.

Hordes of cruise ship passengers and day-trippers vie for a patch on this long, white sand beach. Palms and seagrapes provide shade, and two lifeguards ensure safety. The beach has cool showers, flush toilets, covered pavilions, a snack bar, and snorkel rentals. Its underwater snorkel trail provides an easy introduction to snorkeling and the marine world, but there is more sea life around the small island, Trunk Cay, that sits in the middle of the bay.

Home to the Virgin Islands National Park campground, this beach sees lots of visitors and tour groups. But, because of its length, the groups are less of a problem here than at other beaches. For solitude, head to the far ends or come early or late. The snorkeling is particularly good at the far eastern end and around Cinnamon Cay. There are showers, flush toilets, a convenience store, and a restaurant.

While the beach at nearby Maho Bay Camps is also called Maho Bay, this stretch of greenery-fringed white sand sits adjacent to the road. There are no services, and consequently less people, which is why locals and boaters who moor offshore, as well as independent visitors, prefer it. The snorkeling along the beach is barely mediocre, so head to the rocks along the north edge to see colorful fish. You might see a turtle or two swim across your path.

A windmill towers over the 18th-century Annaberg Plantation, casting its long shadow on the jail cell, the old kitchen, sugar factory, the remains of the slave quarters, a garden, and other reminders of the days when slaves fueled St. John’s agrarian economy. Although it can get crowded at times, most days you’ll find plenty of solitude and space to enjoy the plantation’s fabulous view across the sea to nearby Tortola. In summer, red flamboyant trees add splashes of color to the landscape.

The restaurants and shops in and around Coral Bay may seem like just a stop on your round-the-island tour, but if you look a little closer you’ll discover a real sense of community. Indeed, the Guy Benjamin School bears the name of a retired educator who lives just down the road. The boat yard may seem a tad on the ramshackle side, but it’s the center of life for the dozens of folks who live aboard their boats in Coral Bay harbor.

From this popular overlook (seeBordeaux Overlook, St. John), you can admire Coral Bay below, and to the east the glorious turquoise sea, Norman Island, Peter Island, and the other islands along the BVI chain to Virgin Gorda. A tour bus favorite, the area can get quite busy with taxis and motorists trying to avoid people who wander into the road. The area also has a restaurant open for lunch and one open for dinner, plus a few gift shops.

Off the beaten path, but easy to get to, Estate Catherineberg served as headquarters for the Amina warriors during the 1733 slave uprising. The windmill and other ruins of this 1718 site are St. John’s best-preserved examples of the period. To find it, turn off Centerline Road mid-island at a large Virgin Islands National Park sign. The sign is easiest to see if you’re driving from Cruz Bay to Coral Bay.