The island of Tortola blends bustle with bucolic. Its main town, Road Town, is the center of an off-shore banking industry, a port for cruise ships plying the Caribbean, and the jumping-off spot for trips to other BVI islands. It can get busy when office workers and tourists fill its lanes and shopping centers. However, the peace of rural Tortola is just moments away. The stunning palm-fringed beaches are rarely crowded, and only a couple of cars can be spotted moving along the narrow roads that crisscross the island’s green hills. Enjoy the intimacy of its small hotels and the thrill of the vast array of watersports on offer. Indeed, the entire BVI is a major sailing capital of the world and many week-long charters depart from Tortola’s many marinas.
Intriguing stamps at the Road Town Post Office include those showing Queen Elizabeth II with the postage in US money-
Mid-Morning
Center your stroll on Road Town, leaving busy places such as Wickhams Cay I to the office workers and frenetic shoppers. Start at the Post Office, where philatelists can buy the island’s spectacular stamps. Meander up narrow Main Street, poking in and out of small shops selling essentials as well as knick-knacks. Main Street just about ends at Sunny Caribbee (seeSunny Caribbee Gallery, Tortola), where you can browse for Caribbean spices and jams and enjoy the colorful artwork at its sister gallery.
Cross the Waterfront Highway for a stroll through Crafts Alive, one of the best spots to shop for locally made crafts (seeCrafts Alive Market, Tortola). The artisans are often on hand to discuss their wares.
Stop by the waterfront ferry terminal to watch islanders coming and going. Boats leave for the USVI and outer BVIs throughout the day, so you’ll get an eye-opening view into island life as you watch folks lug groceries, huge boxes, and all manner of things onto the ferries. The air-conditioned waiting room provides a chilly respite if the warm weather has you dripping. Pick up a copy of the tourist publication,The BVI Welcome (seeThe BVI Welcome), for a good read while you rest.
Having no doubt worked up an appetite, amble along Waterfront Drive for cold drinks and delicious Italian fare at Capriccio di Mare (seeCapriccio di Mare), a hot spot for locals on their lunch break.
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The waves sometimes roll at Apple Bay, particularly during the winter season, making this one of the better surfing spots in the Virgin Islands. When it’s calm, the water is fine for swimming. Nearly a mile (1.6 km) in length with white sand as well as some rocks, Apple Bay Beach never gets crowded, so pull over and pick your spot. There are a couple of small but distinctive lodging and restaurant options located at either end of the beach, with the absolutely outrageous Bomba Shack bar (seeBomba Shack, Tortola) near the western end.
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This small island is home to the BVI’s largest airport, officially called Terrance B. Lett-some International Airport (seeTerrence B. Lettsome International Airport, Beef Island,Tortola) after a former member of the BVI Legislative Council. Pay your 50-cent toll to cross the Beef Island Bridge by putting the money in a cup extended by the toll collector. Beef Island’s long, lovely beach draws numerous swimmers and shellers. Its Trellis Bay is also the jumping off point for ferry trips to smaller islands, and has a small collection of shops and restaurants.
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This elegant place serves superb Italian fare (seeBrandywine Bay, Tortola). The menu changes often, but look for the grilled veal chops with ricotta and sun-dried tomatoes.
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Make sure your brakes work before you drive way downhill to Brewers Bay. Both Brewers Bay East and Brewers Bay West Roads, leading to the bay, are super steep. The beach itself is a long stretch of sand with calm water that sees few people other than those visiting Brewers Bay Campground. This collection of tents and shelters nestles at the water’s edge. The campground’s small restaurant serves modest meals; but it’s best to bring lunch and snacks because the eatery keeps irregular hours. Excellent swimming and snorkeling are enough reasons to make the trip.
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The North Coast Road runs right through Cane Garden Bay, a small community that’s home to a handful of guesthouses, and a few casual West Indian restaurants that can really get hopping when music plays. Make a stop at the venerable Callwood Rum Distillery (seeCallwood Rum Distillery, Tortola), where the Callwood family has brewed rum for decades. Boaters like to anchor offshore for a stretch on the long sandy beach and, of course, to enjoy the restaurants and nightlife together with hotel guests.
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You can make a meal out of appetizers such as the octopus salad and crostini with tomato and garlic here.
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Pick your own lobster right from the pool or dine on fresh local fish grilled Cajun style or drizzled with a spicy sauce. Meat-eaters can opt for lamb and filet mignon.
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Crewed boats leave from Road Town, Nanny Cay, and Soper’s Hole for an offshore cay, Jost Van Dyke, the Baths on Virgin Gorda, or Anegada.
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Delicious fresh swordfish and spicy curries served on the waterfront.
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Restaurant price categories
Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
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