Thickly forested Virgin Gorda punctuates the string of volcanic islands that make up the USVI and BVI. Named the “Fat Virgin” by Christopher Columbus, the 8.5-sq mile (22-sq km) island with 3,000 inhabitants is the most populous of the 60 or so outer islands. Anegada sits 15 miles (24 km) to its east, a flat atoll fringed by a spectacular reef and home to only 173 hearty souls. Jost Van Dyke, to the west of Tortola, has 200 folks on its 3 sq miles (8 sq km). Many other islands are occupied by exclusive hotels and private homes. The rest are unpopulated, waiting for sailors to drop anchor at their harbors. Except for Virgin Gorda, access is difficult. But if you want some peace on a truly tropical idyll, it’s well worth the effort.
For more on the BVI outer islands (seeSailing in the British Virgin Islands) The Wreck of the Rhone was used to film the 1976 movie, The Deep, starring Jacqueline Bisset and Nick Nolte-
Spectacular white sand beaches, providing superb sunning and snorkeling, rim this 15-sq mile (39-sq km) atoll. The reef fringing the island keeps the waters calm and the fish plentiful. Some beaches have fanciful names such as Cow Wreck, so named because a ship full of bones destined to become buttons washed up on the reef. Casual restaurants serving seafood and more sit along the sands, well back from the water.
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Lobster served in many forms is the thing at this beach-front restaurant. If you’re there for lunch, opt for the lobster salad sandwich on a soft roll.
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Late Afternoon
Since you’ll want your stomach well-lined before starting a busy night, head for the Bitter End Yacht Club’s Clubhouse Steak & Seafood Grille (seeClubhouse Steak & Seafood Grille, Virgin Gorda) for sundowners and then dinner. To get there, park your car at Gun Creek, located at the end of a steep downhill road in North Sound, and take the complimentary ferry.
Evening
Drop in for after-dinner drinks and dancing at Saba Rock Resort (seeSaba Rock Resort, Virgin Gorda), just a 200-yard (180-m) boat trip away from Bitter End Yacht Club. Call them at284-495-7711orVHF 16for a ride.
Get back to Bitter End Yacht Club, to wind down at The English Pub. This bar stays open till very late, but remember that the last ferry to Gun Creek departs at 10 pm.
Later
If you have any energy left, stop by The Restaurant at Leverick Bay (seeThe Restaurant at Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda), located a short drive shore-side in North Sound, for a nightcap or cup of coffee.
Make sure someone in your group abstains from drinking throughout. On your drive back to the hotel, the twisting roads can be treacherous with a few drinks down the hatch.
Saba Rock Resort often closes in September and other places may have shorter hours during the summer and fall. Always do a last-minute check of opening and closing hours.
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While hotels organize day sails, most folks prefer to rent small sail or power boats for a trip around North Sound on their own.
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Hop the complimentary ferry to the Bitter End Yacht Club’s breezy restaurant, where the meal includes appetizer, soup, entrée, dessert, and an after-dinner rum. The tropical fruit tart is delicious.
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Dine under the stars on the patio with the sea close by.
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Fresh Anegada lobster served in the shell and dripping butter is the dish to order here.
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Go bonefishing in Anegada’s fringing reef with Garfield’s Guides.
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The island’s salt ponds are the only places in the USVI and BVI where pink flamingos roost. Look, but do not disturb.
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Foxy Callwood just might make up a song about you while you’re dining (seeFoxy’s, Jost Van Dyke).
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Restaurant price categories
Price categories include a three-course meal for one, a glass of house wine, and all unavoidable extra charges including tax.
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